Sian Esther & Charl Knitwear Interview with Ginnie Chadwyck-Healey, former Vogue editor
What have been the 3 key moments in building your respective brands?
Sian: I think I have always had an entrepreneurial spirit. As a little girl I would dream up shops from flower stalls, cake stalls or nail salons. It was then at University that I discovered the job as a Buyer when learning about the supply chain of French beans! After studying Geography at University I went on to the Buying offices of Selfridges and John Lewis. I loved the creativity of the role and I spent many meetings with supplies pitches their ideas to me and it was then that I felt I wanted to be on the other side of the table with my own brand!
I have always loved pyjamas and the feeling of unwinding at the end of the day. In fact I wanted to gift my Mum a pair but struggled to find a suitable pair. Ones that weren’t too sexy or too frumpy but classic, chic pyjamas. Mum and I started playing around with patterns and then when she died, I decided I wanted to give it a go. It made me realise that life is short and precious and not to regret never giving it a go.
Frankie:
1. Having my children and wanting to create a business that was sustainable and did some good.
2. Visiting the Cromer fishing Museum and being fascinated by the Norfolk fishermen’s Gansey jumpers and the stories behind them. I wanted to find a way to tell their stores that would appeal to people today, before they were lost in time.
3. I always wanted to be a knitwear designer since I was a little girl and creating my own brand seemed to be a natural progression after having children and the need to be more flexible with my work/life balance.
How do you grapple with the cost of your product versus some of the crazily low prices you see on the high street? What do you say to the naysayers? What really goes into your prices?
Frankie: I actually look at it the other way round, if you look at the other luxury brands who work with the same factories as me, you’ll see that my prices are extremely competitive because I sell direct to my customer from my website, without add in a hefty margin on for a retailer or shareholders! BUT, I would say that when you’re looking at the price of clothing on the high street, you need to consider the minimum wage and do a quick calculation to check that this is included in the retail price because all too often, it’s the overseas workers who are not being paid a decent wage.
Sian: You can find pyjamas on the high street at staggeringly low prices and I don’t understand how they are able to buy the fabric at the prices they charge, let alone factor in the cost of making them. For us, it is hugely important that we work with a team in Portugal who are paid fairly for their work and that we use materials that are the sustainable in the best way possible. We use BCI cotton which is a programme that works on protecting the environment and the people or farmers who grow it. The quality of our fabric is superb and the pieces will stand the test of time, meaning you can wash and wear on repeat or pass the children’s ones down to younger siblings. What sets us apart are all the thoughtful details, the scalloped edges, pretty trims and covered buttons. We don’t skimp on fabric as we want the pyjamas to be a comfortable fit so we add plackets at the back of the jackets. These little details do add to the cost of the garment but it is these details that make them special.
What does Business done Better look like to you?
Sian: From the onset Sian Esther was built with purpose and with a mission to give back to women of disadvantage. I wanted to give back the feeling of comfort and security, like when you put on your pyjamas. We partner with the Luminary Bakery who help train disadvantaged women to bake and gain independence.
Then as we discussed earlier, supply chain and thoughtful decisions around materials and packaging all play a big part in trying to do business better. We are not perfect and have a lot more to do but I hope the small changes we are making can add up to create impact.
Frankie: I donate to the RNLI each May, to their MayDay Appeal, in honour of the Norfolk fishing communities who inspire my collection because all the fishermen we also Lifeboat Men.
Both brands nourish us, by keeping us warm, by keeping us comforted and comfortable, by providing practical additions to our wardrobe. What is your favourite thing to do when you just want to give yourself a bit of self-nourishment, when you just want to slow down?
Frankie: I’m leaning to teach yoga this year, so my favourite thing to do for self-nourishment is some Yoga Nidra, wrapped up in my chunky Fishermen’s Socks and a cosy jumper of cardigan from my collection!
Sian: My non-negotiable at the end of a day is a hot bath. A sanctuary where I can shut the door and be in my own thoughts. It is often where my new ideas come to mind. I love lots of bubbles and then to put on a fresh pair of PJs to potter in and then I read a little before bed.
You can shop with 10% off Charl Knitwear using code: MEADOW10
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